A FINE DINER
Special to the Star-Telegram
"On a recent afternoon, Chef Terry Chandler was standing in front of Fred's Texas Cafe, the little watering hole with great food founded by Chandler's parents nearly 30 years ago in the industrial area off Seventh Street that's slowly being annexed by the Cultural District. He was eager to show off the spiffed-up joint..... He was quick to caution, however, that changes are strictly superficial. "It's Fred's, but with a face-lift," assured Terry, who now owns Fred's with his wife Jennifer Chandler.
Sure enough, the cafe's famously carefree spirit prevails, but there are signs that Fred's has adopted a smidge of establishment practices: There's actually a printed menu; you can now order wine, as well as beer, the beverage of choice; credit cards are finally accepted; and there's no smoking indoors.
Still, lest anyone think Fred's has gone mainstream, Terry had a giant sign painted on the north side of the building to advertise "cold-ass beer." (Sadly, authorities objected, and now you're beckoned by a simple "burgers and beer" invitation.) Inside, your seating choices remain the sparkly gold-vinyl booths and a handful of bar stools, but the back wall is now covered with a cowboy mural (Terry is a chuck-wagon chef of renown). The patio is still the place to grab a table or picnic bench (arriving by early evening is key), listen to live music and even throw some horseshoes. Terry and Jennifer encourage patrons to bring their kids.
Among new kitchen revelations has been the debut of Sunday brunch, a remarkably simple but satisfying experience. Forget any notions of granola, yogurt and fruit; this is Texas food in its purest form. Best is the plate of quail with eggs your way ($16.25), in which the grilled, meaty birds get even better with just a spoonful of Fred's salsa. The rib-eye with eggs ($16.25) plays to the heartiest appetites. The inch-thick, well-marbled steak -- heavy with Terry's signature spice blend -- leaves almost no room for the dense, can-cut biscuits with smooth gravy.
Somewhat lighter, the brunch migas ($7.25) features eggs scrambled with corn-tortilla strips with a side of refried beans. I might have liked these more with a special red or green chile sauce in the mix, but with one of the 18-ounce mimosas ($6) on the side, who cares?
New at lunch is a sourdough-battered chicken fried steak ($11.75), which cook Bryan Massey has raised to an art form. Almost the size of a catcher's mitt, this thick but supremely tenderized steak wears a beautifully bronzed, crunchy jacket. I wanted to give this my undivided devotion, but then I was distracted by the sublime green-chile hominy on the side.
A little more virtuous, the grilled-chicken lunch plate ($9.50) offers a tender breast in a light brown gravy with thick slices of sauteed red and yellow bell peppers and sweet onions. You can get this with Fred's fabulous skins-on fries, too.
Fred's chipotle-fueled Diablo burger ($10.70) remains a favorite. And on Wednesday nights, you'll still find pizza options including chicken-pesto, shrimp alfredo with asparagus, and Italian sausage with grilled zucchini ($10-$15).
Still great food, just with improved packaging.
Fred's Texas Cafe
915 Currie St.
Fort Worth
817-332-0083
Hours: 10:30 a.m.-midnight Tuesday-Saturday; 10:30 a.m.-9 p.m. Sunday. (Brunch 10:30 a.m.-1 p.m.)
Cuisine: Burgers, home cooking, steaks, pizza, tacos
Essentials: Major credit cards; beer and wine; smoke-free; wheelchair-accessible.
Entree cost: $9-$20
Signature dishes: Diablo burger, grilled quail, chicken-fried steak
Recommended for: Free spirits and other nonconformists
Good to know: Smoking on patio OK; live music most nights; kid-friendly."